Lion's Head (Packraft/Raft/Canoe/Kayak)

Golden aspens and crimson fireweed light up the mountainsides above the Matanuska Glacier in autumn.  The rock formation known as Lions Head rises above the converging forks of the Matanuska River, and Chugach peaks with dustings of snow rise higher still.  From both the Glenn Highway and the river, visitors can see the blue ice of the Matanuska Glacier emit intense azure hues into Alaska’s waning sunlight.

The Matanuska River emanates primarily from two significant glaciers, the East Fork and Matanuska.  Since the river flows straight out from the glaciers’ snout, it is very cold.  The opaque grey water is harder to read than clearwater streams, and is so choked with silt that it looks even different from other glacier-fed rivers like the Talkeetna.  

Autumn is a fine time to visit Lions Head for paddling or ice climbing.  While the whitewater runs all summer, the mountains display their most vibrant colors this time of year.  Few places in Southcentral have such a panorama of foliage and ice capped with snow on the high peaks.  It would be worth making the drive from Anchorage just for the view looking down valley past Lions Head and over the glacier, but if you’re going to drive out you might as well paddle or ice climb too.

With a rainy September, water levels have remained relatively high, meaning that whitewater rafters, kayakers, canoeists and packrafters all will enjoy the trip down the river.  Lions Head’s rapids vary significantly based on water level.  At higher summertime flows (in excess of 7 feet on the gauge), the rapids consist of large waves and hydraulics.  While some of the rapids go on for a while, nearly all of them have flatter though still fast moving water in between them.  

Lions Head’s rapids are Class III+ at water levels around 7-7.5 feet, and Class II+/III around 5 feet on the gauge.  Levels above 7 feet are best for rafts.  Skilled whitewater canoeists and kayakers will enjoy paddling at higher or lower water, as both the large waves and more technical drops are fun to maneuver through.  Packrafters with the “cruiser,” non-whitewater spraydeck will probably prefer lower water.  At higher water, there are so many large waves and holes that non-whitewater decked packrafts will fill up quickly and frequently.

Water levels in the river will fall as winter approaches and the glacier melt subsides, turning previously frothing rapids into more technical mazes through rocks.  If you want to paddle a less turbulent, more technical version of Lions Head, late September usually is a good time.

Late September also is when the Mountaineering Club of Alaska has its ice climbing festival.  The festival is a good introduction to ice climbing, as the club and instructors provide some of the more expensive gear like ice tools (axes for ice climbing) and ropes.  The festival includes two days of climbing, with camping near the glacier.  At the festival, you can learn how to set anchors in ice and other basic safety techniques.  

The ice climbing festival can be part of a broader training program to prepare for beginner glacier trips like the Eklutna Traverse, as the ice at the toe of Matanuska Glacier can familiarize travellers with conditions they’ll face at the toe of Eklutna Glacier.

Depending on which group you’re in, the classes may end with enough time to go paddle Lions Head afterward.  Paddling down Caribou Creek, it only takes about an hour and a half to paddle Lion’s Head, and ice climbing plus whitewater is a great multisport combination.

Lions Head is one of the classic road-accessible whitewater runs near Anchorage.  The perfect time to paddle it is in fall colors.  Take a trip out there, and paddle some of the region’s great whitewater with views of trembling yellow aspens and fresh snow on the peaks of the Chugach overlooking Matanuska Glacier.