Matanuska, South Fork (Packraft)

Most people think of the Matanuska River starting at the snout of its eponymous glacier, but its liquid headwaters reach much further upstream. The East Fork of theMatanuska begins in the low pass between the Matanuska and Copper River watersheds, near Eureka Roadhouse. The South Fork of the Matanuska emerges from a separate glacier deep in the Chugach, east of the better known MatanuskaGlacier. Several miles upstream of Matanuska Glacier and the rapids formed by its terminus, the South and East forks of the Matanuska merge and flow through a deep gorge.

If this scenery isn't enough to lure you out for a trip, the rapids of Lions Head might be.

The forks of the Matanuska are a wild and unique riverscape. A fan-shaped network of rivers and creeks, including Caribou Creek and Matanuska's East and South Forks, all converge in a wide, gravel plain directly upstream of the Lions Head rock formation. From this broad plain, the gleaming surface of the Matanuska Glacier is visible downstream, just above the treetops. After the confluence of these three tributaries, the once-broad river necks down into a roiling series of cataracts that rush past the old, rocky terminus of Matanuska Glacier. This Class III-IV section of whitewater, like the nearby rock formation, is known as Lions Head. If there's enough water to float down the East Fork to the South Fork of the Matanuska, Lions Head probably will be high and very exciting in a packraft.

You don't have to packraft Class III and IV rapids in order to paddle the East and South Forks of the Matanuska, however. When Caribou Creek is relatively low, as it often is during mid to late summer, it is possible to take out right above Lions Head and walk upstream along Caribou Creek's gravel bars to one of the two access points for the Glenn Highway. The closer one is signed as a gold panning area, and the second (approximately a mile from the confluence) is right next to the Glenn Highway bridge.

To access the East and South Forks of the Matanuska, park at the Majestic Lodge. There is a wooden sign twenty five yards downhill from the parking lot that denotes ski and hiking trails (Majestic's proprietor grooms cross country ski trails in the winter). Follow this double track downhill, veering right at the first significant fork. The double track soon turns to a hiking trail, and meanders downhill before switchbacking down the steepest part of the hill. It is an easy half hour walk from the parking lot down to the river, with only a few downed trees to climb over.

At the put in, the East Fork of the Matanuska is a tiny stream, which may barely be passable or too low in mid to late summer. There is about a mile of bumping and grinding through Class I shoals down to the South Fork of the Matanuska River, which will continue to have plenty of water until its glacial source disappears. The primary hazard getting down to the South Fork is strainers: With the East Fork's narrow width, portages around strainers probably will be necessary, and the strainers could be dangerous during higher water.

The South Fork of the Matanuska is chocolate brown with sediment. It is fairly easy paddling through Class I gravel bars and waves with some strong eddy lines. After paddling for a half hour to 45 minutes on the South Fork, the river constricts and goes through a deep, narrow gorge with a delicate pinnacle on one side of the river. This gorge feels magically remote because few people paddle the South Fork, despite the proximity of Glenn Highway. Another half hour downstream of the canyon, Lions Head appears all of a sudden and the Matanuska Glacier will be visible downstream on the left.

Only continue to paddle if you are comfortable in big, turbulent whitewater. Lions Head is Class III with several Class IV rapids during the summer. The river's silty opacity makes water reading much harder than on a clear stream. Many holes are large enough to flip a packraft and thrash a paddler, and the water's frigid temperatures mean a swim would be unppleasant and, in the absence of a drysuit, quite dangerous. However, if you're a competent whitewater paddler, Lions Head is a blast. It can be run smoothly in a packraft by zig zagging back and forth across the river to dodge holes, pourovers, and waves. These ferries, directly above big holes, are thrilling.

It only takes about a half day to hike down to the East Fork and paddle all the way down to the Glacier Park bridge below Lions Head, assuming there are no mishaps on the river. This trip may be possible for Class III paddlers in the fall, if there is rain in the East Fork headwaters but cool temperatures reducing glacial melt and the water level in Lions Head. Regardless of whether you choose to run Lions Head or walk out via Caribou Creek, the South and East Forks of the Matanuska are a little known but visually stunning packraft trip.