Iliamna

In Alaska, the Ring of Fire is shrouded in snow. Great volcanoes of the North Pacific fault line alternate between explosions of liquid magma and creeping entombments of glacial ice. Snow falls heavily on the high peaks for decades, centuries, millennia, building up massive glaciers that cascade off all aspects of the peaks, even running down the south faces to near sea level. Then, in cataclysms of molten fire, these volcanoes erupt and wash away the millennias’ ice in a torrent of fiery, liquid rock.

Skiing down the west ridge

 Iliamna is one of the great volcanoes that dominates the Alaska Range skyline and beckons mountain pilgrims from Southcentral. Each day in winter, it rises far above the fata morgana that elevates the lower peaks and plateaus above Cook Inlet. Along with Redout and Spurr, it forms an imposing triumvirate of peaks which, by virtue of their volcanic origins, possess a mysticism that eludes mountains formed through more pedestrian terrestrial processes.

West Ridge

Alaska’s Ring of Fire volcanoes are shockingly dynamic. Aniakchak volcano exploded in one of the 20th century’s great eruptions, replacing verdant meadows with a steaming, gaping crater six miles across. Redoubt erupted most recently in 2009, creating a third summit cone on its northwest face, and melting much of its massive north-facing glacier. Even this substantial eruption pales in comparison to the cataclysm that blew off the previous summit of Redoubt, leaving in its place abbreviated twin summits and a large plateau at 8,000 feet that would soon become blanketed in glacial ice.

 These volcanoes are so unpredictable that the Alaska Volcano Observatory monitors them continuously, making seismic measurements that could indicate an incipient eruption and conducting overflights to monitor the gasses that some of the volcanoes visibly send skyward. The Observatory is the only way area residents might be warned of an impending, massive eruption.

Umbrella Glacier, from Iliamna's summit

 Depending on the nature of one’s approach to Iliamna, the tales of fire may conceal themselves for most of the climb. From a distance to the east, and from the north and west, Iliamna appears as a massive, nearly symmetrical cone, almost completed cloaked in glaciers that cascade seaward. The ice is so expansive that it flaunts its liquid characteristics, flowing downslope and creating great crevasse fields and ice falls during the descent. The glaciers and their snow represent symbiosis and, from the climber’s perspective, conflict: Where the glaciers conspire to block progress with icefalls, untold hundreds of inches of annual snowfall blanket the ice and bridge many crevasses.

Iliamna's broad summit

Iliamna’s snowfall is substantial enough, and its topography is consistent enough, that it is a relatively easy climb by Alaska mountaineering standards. Those standards, of course, are completely skewed from the perspective of a lay athlete. Straightforward climbs in Alaska, called “Alaska Grade One” by alpinists, may entail navigation of substantial crevasse fields, exposure to deadly falls, and surface conditions ranging from snow to nearly impenetrable glacial ice. As a result, a climb such as Iliamna may be dull for vertically-oriented climbers and thrilling for people like, well, me.

Although it is laced with crevasses and has some steep, exposed sections, Iliamna is a good climbing destination for reasonably fit people with glacial travel experience and a degree of comfort climbing steep snow. Visitors can take a boat across from the Kenai and work their way up the long, flat Tuxedni Glacier, or fly in and land just about anywhere on the Tuxedni. It tops out at 4,000 feet, on a broad, flat pass to the northwest of the peak. This is a good drop off point for people who don’t prize slogging. Doug Brewer of Alaska West Air, in Nikiski, is the pilot with whom to fly. Nobody has his experience in this region of the Alaska Range, or the interest and aptitude in dropping off and picking up climbers in the area.

From the upper Tuxedni Glacieer, Iliamna’s west and northwest ridges are clearly visible, along with the vast expanse of snow, ice, and crevasses in between. The traditional climbing route threads crevasses up this northwest face. The northwest and west ridges are possible approach routes as well. In the relatively low snow year of 2017, the west ridge seems to be the most straightforward. Accessing it requires contouring across a few miles of glacier, and around several nunataks, to arrive at the ridge in the vicinity of 6,700 feet of elevation. There are a couple possible campsites on the ridge, though some are exposed to avalanches from above and all would be nasty places to wait out a storm. The ascent from here is fairly simple: Follow the steepening, narrowing ridgeline as it approaches the summit block. The final 1,000 feet or so are fairly steep, ascending a narrow ramp of neve and snow with massive glaciers on either side, adjacent to an imposing icefall of the Umbrella Glacier to the east. Conditions on this ridge are likely to vary, and may be bootable snow sometimes and windswept ice other times. The smell of sulfur becomes strong as low as 7,000 feet. In good conditions, it makes sense to climb without protection, though I would think differently if the ramp was icy. At the top of the narrow ramp, the summit ridge becomes much less steep and is an easy walk to the summit. Be vigilant for crevasses, however, as the relentless snows on Iliamna’s peak create glacial flow and significant crevasses right on top of the summit.

Iliamna’s summit is expansive and nearly flat. Suddenly, the rugged Neacolas and Tordrillos look small compared to the few high volcanoes that tower above them. The most remarkable perspective from the summit is the mountain’s blown out crater, which is on the south side. The Umbrella Glacier cloaks much of the crater in a cascading, snow-covered icefall. Vertical portions of the rock are covered with a thin layer of sulfur-encrusted rime ice. Beyond the crater, Augustine volcano and Afognak Island are visible in the distance, appearing like a glittering, wavy mirage.

Late April or early May is a good target timeframe to visit Iliamna. It is still cold on the mountain, and snow bridges over crevasses should be intact. Long daylight affords ample time to climb and descend the peak. From the upper Tuxedni Glacier, it is possible to climb and descend Iliamna in two to three days, with a high camp on the west or northwest ridge. Highly fit skiers could summit and descend in a day, though anyone planning that should be familiar with how their body reacts to rapid changes in altitude. Since weather can get nasty very quickly in this region, it is imperative to bring extra food and fuel, and a burly tent to wait out storms.

For skiers and climbers, Alaska’s Ring of Fire volcanoes are sirens calling from across the water. To reenact an odyssey, boat across in a skiff or a Zodiac, starting from sea level. Or mortals can fly in and out in relative luxury, darting up and down the mountain in sometimes brief weather windows between storms.